Three things to check if your Honda HR214 or HR215 isn't moving like it should!
1. Wheel ratchets. There is a rachet mechanism that fits inside each wheel-they are there so you can turn the mower under power, i.e. have one wheel moving more quickly than the other. When they fail they may stop the wheel from turning at all, or they may allow the wheel to spin freely and not power the mower at all. The left rachet is different from the right, so make sure to order the correct one!
2. Transmission Cable. The cable that leads from the handle to the transmission gets stretched out over time. If this is the case it may soon fail to engage the transmission, or engage it on flat ground, but not on a hill, or disengage it at random. First, try to tighten the cable (it works like a bicycle shifter cable), and then replace it if it is stretched too far.
3. Transmission. Contrary to popular belief, these are NOT hydrostatic transmissions! The HR214 and HR215 are plain old gear transmissions and are in fact very serviceable. I would only open one up when you've ruled out the other two possibilities-wheel ratchets and transmission cable.
Common issues for Honda Hr214 transmissions:
These units are pretty bullet proof. Problems like having them slip out of drive on a hill, or engaging drive in a jerking motion, or not at all, are usually traced back to the cable that runs from the mower handle down to the transmission itself. The cable will stretch over time, and can be easily adjusted near the top of the handle-it works like the cable on a bicycle shifter or brake.
Another issue that come up occasionally are complaints of the mower "squeaking" when moving forward or backwards. This isn't actually the transmission at all, but is almost always the ball bearings that sit in adjuster arms wearing out over time. Remove the wheels from the axel, remove the adjuster arms and replace the ball bearings-they are still available from Plano Power or your local Honda parts dealer.
Very infrequently people have more serious issues that require disassembly of the unit. My HR214 began to stay in gear and move forward even after I disengaged the transmission-pretty disconcerting when I was mowing near the lake! After a while it refused to go into gear at all, and I knew it was time to open up the transmission.
Disassembly:
Dissassembly was pretty easy. Remove the wheels, remove the adjuster arms, and turn the mower on it's side. Use flat head screwdrivers and needle nose pliers to disconnect the two cables, and remove the transmission from the body of the mower. When the transmission is removed, put the axel in a vice so the 5 bolts are facing up. Unscrew the bolts and remove the upper half of the transmission case.
If your transmission was in as bad a shape as mine the case will be filled with a very small amount of milky oil! Get a container for the all the parts that you remove, then wash the parts as well as the case with a degreaser. I would not remove the final gear from the final shaft because it's held in with a pin that is a TOTAL pain to remove. My final shaft was damaged because of a worn ball bearing set (discussed above) on the adjuster arm so I ended up ordering a new shaft and gear set because I wasn't able to separate the two on mine. Remove the rubber seals as well before cleaning.
When everything is disassembled and clean, it should look like this:
Here is a closeup of the two halves of the case:
Inspect the parts for anything broken, but you probably won't find anything amiss. My transmission just needed to be lubricated-the driven clutch was getting stuck on the countershaft because of the ancient oil. I would definitely recommend replacing the rubber seals and replacing the gear oil as well-Honda recommended 130cc of SAE 90 hypoid oil, but the modern substitute is 80w-90 gear oil that meets GL-5 specification. 130ccs is just enough to fill the lower case after all the other parts have been put back in.
Reassembly is mostly just the opposite of disassembly. When putting the cables back together make sure to to line up the marks on the levers that hold the cables with the marks on the pivots (this may not be necessary if you just removed the cables from the levers, and left the levers on the pivots). You may need to adjust the cables after everything is back together.
That's pretty much it!
If you have any questions about these transmissions, let me know in the comments!
my honda hr2145 wheels slowly spin when I pick up the rear but will not propel on grass. the left wheel is making a clicking noise when I push it forward in gear, what is the problem?
ReplyDeleteThe clicking is normal-there are wheel ratchets inside each wheel that click in normal operation. I haven't seen a situation where the wheels rotate slowly in the air, but not on the grass. First, try adjusting the transmission cable (works like a bike cable) to make sure it is engaging the transmission. If that doesn't work, it might be time to open up the transmission and see what you find.
DeleteMine is doing the same thing … I lift up the rear and the wheels rotate … set it down and it makes a grinding sound … did you figure anything out??
ReplyDeleteHaven't heard any grinding from these units, but I'd check the same three things-make sure the rachets in the wheels are working, then the transmission cable, and then open up the transmission case itself.
DeleteMine is doing something similar see my comment below!!! did you ever figure it out? I have a suspicion....
Deletemy hr214 will not engage in he low gear, everything else works fine, any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteCheck the cable that selects the gear (1 or 2). If it's not loose then it might be time to crack open the transmission.
DeleteMy HR214 is driving poorly. Making noise (clattering), stopping and going. All fine when I push it. I have replaced the ratchets and rear wheels. I have tried adjusting the cable, making it tighter. Still clattering and stopping and going. Can the belt be working somewhat, but so loose it can't be adjusted to drive smoothly? Sitting up off the ground to test the drive, it appears to be working fine. Put it on the driveway or grass and it acts up. I have had this mower 40 years or so. Never changed the belt. The only repair ever was adjustment of drive cable. Every year it starts on first pull. It has been fantastic. But it is hard to push cause I have some hills. So I need the self propel.
ReplyDeleteThere is no belt-these are shaft driven =)
DeleteThe clattering is exactly what I had before I replaced the clutch cable. After 40 years I wouldn't be surprised at all if it's stretched beyond service life-mine was!
Can you still get the drive axle
ReplyDeleteAs of this posting you could, but I think it was 50$. Check with Plano power.
DeleteCan you get the gearbox housings
ReplyDeleteNot sure-probably best to look on the used market for these.
DeleteCan you get the gearbox housings
ReplyDeleteHey love the blog!
ReplyDeleteGreat little mowers. Mine started to click when engaging and then started to click more under load... now all it does is click(grind)... i checked the wheel ratchets, those seem to be working fine as described I then checked the cables but no dice... only thing i noticed was the speed selection cable was frozen in high which is fine (I think) because that's all I ever use it in anyway.. so I ripped her off and cracked her open not a lot of fluid in there but it looked clean nothing looked to worn, no metal shavings in the fluid or on anything... only thing i noticed is odd is the pinion bevel seems to be really loose in the needle bearing... and seems as though it may not be making good contact with gear bevel (52t)...
any thoughts on this? should there be play in that needle bearing? if not then I think Ive found my problem...
Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks,
Wall-E
Mine's doing the same. That little nub the connects to the drive shaft. A little numb pushes back and forth into the transmission and I'm not sure if it should be spring loaded. Did you get yours fixed?
DeleteHmm-good question. My transmission housing was an early one that didn't have the needle bearings. If there was any doubt I'd just go ahead and replace the bearing and see if things tightened up. Good luck!
DeleteThe only thing int he transmission that is spring loaded is the shift spring. See page 53 of the service manual for a parts diagram. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_XhlSCK4AgIQTluc1dySkJDYVU/view
DeleteI've had my HR214 SXA for 35 years. I've had almost no problems with it over that time. I do have what appears to be a transmission problem, though. When I engage the transmission, it drives the mower just fine in high and low speed. When I disengage it, as when turning around or going around a corner, sometimes one of the drive wheels will stick as if the transmission is still engaged, although the wheel is not moving. Has anyone seen this problem? Thanks for any responses.
ReplyDeleteCheck the ratchets that are inside your rear wheels-I think one of them is sticking. The left and right are different-it makes sense to order both since if one is on it's way out then they both are. Good luck!
DeleteI don't have the mower in front of me, but I think you'll need to disconnect the cable from that metal arm using a pair of needle nose pliers-I had the unit on it's side for this part of the operation.
ReplyDeleteThe correct oil is listed in this post (see above) and the link to the repair manual is on the repair manuals page.
ReplyDeleteWas just giving an hr214, it has sat for over 20 years. A little gas and it started 1st pull!! Need to get the self propell working. Where can one find parts
ReplyDeleteI used boats.net or plano power. Jack's small engine would be fine too. Good luck!
DeleteHi there, I'm so grateful for your posting the links and shop manuals - invaluable. I have an HR216. I also have two questions.
ReplyDelete1. Did anyone find a cheap replacement battery?
2. My clutch seems to be permanently engaged regardless of the lever position. The cable is taught and operates the arm stopper. I read elsewhere that something in the Rotostop clutch mechanism might be back-to-front, so as per p21 of the service manual, I thought I'd take it apart and carefully reinstall. I got stuck straightaway trying to remove the central bolt. I used a motorbike clutch holder but the bolt just rotates. I then put a socket on the flywheel bolt at the top of the engine (having removed the pull starter unit) but was a bit apprehensive about possibly overtightening or loosening that bolt instead. What am I missing here?
Thanks for any advice
Hey Giles, it's been a while since I had mine apart, but I wouldn't have used anything more than the factory service manual and a strap wench. I've never found a source for a cheap battery, but I think if you matched the specs in the service manual any lead acid battery would work. Good luck!
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ReplyDeletethe cable that connects to the nub on the transmission, there is a hole that i'm assuming lines up with the holes in the nub thing. is there suppose to be a pin in those holes and if so does that make the mower power by itself as the cable and nub are not connected and i have no self power but i also have a problem with lower or making axle higher to fit into the cable . as it looks, the cable spins on the nub after i got it back on the nub ... and is there suppose to be some grease on the wheels? thanks for your response.
ReplyDelete