Here is a list of the best resources that I've found for the honda hr214 and the honda gxv120 engine that powers it. Many of these same resources are good for the honda hr215 and the honda hr194 as well. If you're having trouble with your Honda mower, let us know in the comments and we'll try to help you out!
Honda HR194/HR214 Service Manual Online- CB left us this link in the comments, its the service manual online, for FREE! SWEET!
Honda GXV120 Service manual-This is the service manual for the hr214's engine-in three languages no less!
Honda HR214 Parts diagrams-Actually a link to Planopower, they appear to have a very complete list for the hr214
Honda HR214 Transmission Troubleshooting and Repair-I wrote this when I was repairing my HR214 Transmission. It should also work for HR215 and Hr194 Transmissions.
Honda GX Carb cleaning video-How cool is this? Bwdbrn1 posted this on the "my tractor forum"; its a 8 minute video showing how to take apart and clean a honda gxv120 carb!
Honda HR214 Owner's Manual-This is the owners manual for the mower, which is different from the shop manual.
Honda gxv120 and gxv160 Carb Services checklist-Really nice diagram of what to check for when something is amiss with the Keihin B0E3A carb
Honda HR214 Transmission Troubleshooting and Repair-I wrote this when I was repairing my HR214 Transmission
Hello, Jack! I found your blog by way of Gardenweb while doing some searching for resources on my newly acquired HR-214 that came my way via the local thrift shop. I think it is around a 1986 vintage. I am troubleshooting a problem with the transmission, no drive, but I think it is just a seized cam/cable control causing it. I am going to pull the drive apart tomorrow and clean everything up. Anyway, your link to the shop manual was simply awesome. Writing this comment to let you know that there are readers out there who appreciate your efforts, not including the bozo above trying to sell lawnmowers. Yes, we know you can buy nice lawnmowers. Some of us are interested in cool mower history.
ReplyDeleteMy HR-214 is an SM model with the electric start. Right now I am looking at finding a 12V Li-Ion substitute for the horrendously expensive lead acid OEM battery from Panasonic. Anyway, thank you again. Glad to find your blog.
Hey VMC-glad to hear it helped! You're probably on the right track with the transmission-a stuck cable can easily cause the issue.
ReplyDeleteCan you let me know what kind of battery you end up with? I'd love to get one but you're right about the cost!
I haven't, but if you follow this link you'll get a sense of how the models might be different-
ReplyDeletehttps://planopower.com/store/honda/index_mowers_older_models.shtml
Let us know how it turns out!
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI am getting my neighbors hr214 SX in tip-top shape. My last issue I am having is the transmission shift lever not staying in the #2 (HI) position. The spring pulls the lever back.
Any thoughts?
It looks like all the parts are there and I have tried adjusting the cable. The bolt is tight. Maybe too tight?
Thanks in advance!
OK! after messing around with it more. It makes a difference how the spring is inserted into the shift lever. The long side of the spring should be on the lever side and the factory kink or bend before the hook should bend toward the ground. The shift lever will then "over-center" into the #2 position and remain there until manually changed.
DeleteI had the factory kink or bend going in the up position. I have read on other sites that some people were having the same issue but did not post any solution.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip. I had the same problem. The reason for the spring orientation mattering is that one way the spring coils rest over the lever pivot mechanism and the other way they clear the mechanism. The former prevents the lever from locking in high speed mode and the latter allows locking in both speeds...what you want. Obvious once you see what happens in both positions. Subtle, but important, difference.
DeleteHi Folks, I am new to this post. I have an HR 214 that I bought in the 1980s and the engine is still going strong. The issue I am now encountering is the rear drive wheels, which are plastic, are starting to crack and as a result the drive system cant work. Will replacing the rear wheels, if possible, fix the problem or is this a major issue?
ReplyDeleteI'd do some troubleshooting first. Unless the rear wheels are cracked badly enough that the axel is just spinning on the hub I'm not sure how they would stop the drive system from functioning! The wheels (and tires) are still available.
DeleteThanks Jack, for this. I currently cut my lawn with my HR214sx that my father bought new in 1985. Still have the receipts from when it was purchased. I hope to do a re ring and new head on it since it smokes on startup.
ReplyDeleteThat's a great heirloom Skip, so cool that you have the original receipts! Yes, the re-ring definitely helps with smoking on startup...but if it's just a few seconds I would be tempted to let it go for now. Keep us updated!
DeleteI'm looking for some guidance to help me remove the carburetor from my HR214. It started leaking gas from the bowl and I need to figure out why. Any help on this maintenance would be appreciated! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteDownload the service manual above-there are detailed descriptions of how to remove the carb! If it just started leaking I'd check the fuel hose and then the float inside the bowl...the float may have a hole in it or the float valve may be stuck so that it continues to let in gasoline.
DeleteNew to blog. Our HR214 purchase back in 80's has been leaking oil. Not sure the problem and where it is coming out of motor. Not at oil input spout. Thanks, Steve
ReplyDeleteWelcome! I would check a couple of places. One is at the dipstick tube where it meets the engine block (sounds like you did this already), and the other is under the mower deck itself at where the crank comes out of the block and attaches to the blade drive. This seal is called the main seal and can leak quite a bit of oil when it goes bad. If you find a puddle of oil under the deck, but not on it, it's probably the main seal. Two other possible places are where the drive shaft comes out of the rear of the engine (under the black plastic cover), and where the governor rod comes out of the block on the side of the engine that has the carburetor. Let us know what you find!
DeleteHi Tony. I'd take a look at the fuel system and governor system. There is an inline fuel filter in the tank to check, and after that I'd probably just clean the carb and look at the linkage to the governor is pretty simple, but let me know if you need any pics of one that is set up correctly.
ReplyDeleteHi all! I recently came across an ad listing an Honda HRA214SX. The owner states that the mower has less than 40 hours on it and the pics depict a mower that looks almost new. The asking price is $499. I have no idea what the value of one of these mowers is today and thought I might solicit the wisdom of the contributors on this blog. Thanks
ReplyDeleteWow! Honestly, I have no idea either. A used working example goes for between 150 and 200 where I am, but most have worn rings, stretched cables, etc. Unless you're a collector I'd throw out $300 and see what he says. I don't think there is enough demand to get $499. If you buy it, post some pics here!
DeleteMower starts and runs great. Problem is blade won't drop and cut.
ReplyDeleteMost problems with the Blade Brake Clutch have to do with the bicycle cable that runs from the handle to the clutch itself. Check out the service manual to learn how to adjust it!
DeleteI just found a Honda HR214 on the side of the road! It is complete and I love it. I'm going to have to completely restore it. But it reeks class.
ReplyDeleteNice! Let us know if you have any questions, and make sure to download the service manual at the top of the page.
DeleteHello! The blade clutch on my HR214 stopped engaging. I tried adjusting the cable stop but it looks like the cable is frozen. I tested the movement on the clutch end and the lever is free but cable is not free. Tried lubricant on both ends but I believe I need to replace the cable. My problem is in figuring out how to remove the cable from the handle. I see where it fits in behind the tension piece but it doesn't want to slip out of the handle piece. Should I remove something in order to release the cable (or just use more force)? Similar issue on the clutch end I have the "T" end free but it doesn't want to come away from the holder. Of course, this isn't the newer type with ears that can be compressed. Looks like it is being held with a "collar" of some sort. Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteMy mower's clutch cable also was frozen, but I kept putting some penetrating swap down the cable and after a few days of doing this, it started to get better and kept on with this practice and after a few weeks, it was working like normal. I had the time to wait it out and didn't want to mess with the replacement option.
DeleteHi! My mom gave me her Honda HR214SX about 10 years ago. It is pretty ancient but still runs well. I would like to service it myself since I am pretty handy. Is the manual for the HR214 the same as the HR214SX? I have never done spark plugs before so hoping this won’t be too difficult. I will look through your links and see if this won’t be too hard. I was glad to find this thread.
ReplyDeleteYes, the manual is the same for all HR214 motors. Spark plugs arn't difficult, just make sure to get the correct one and don't over tighten it. If you don't have a torque wrench then put it in "finger tight" and then go an additional half turn with a socket and wrench. Check page 14 in the service manual linked above. Come back if you have any questions!
DeleteThought you might like to hear about my HR 214 non roto stop model from '86, owned by me from new but used commercially for a couple of years so a lot of mileage, when I moved on in my career it became the one I took home.
ReplyDeleteIt has never apart from regular oil changes and filters ever had anything replaced, not even a pull rope, this year it started and stalled, couldn't find the problem so thought it was the end of the road, rebuilt carb changed oil filters still did the same changed spark plug, running like new, the spark plug had also never been changed, the one thing I overlooked as it never appeared worn and kept its gap, they truly are great machines.
I never had a single problem with six others used commercially including HR 216 and the little, now discontinued push poly deck 2 and half HP mower 173.
How cool is that! Not many original owners around any more. I had no idea they made the 214 w/out a rotostop. The 214s have a way of becoming favorites-not too powerful, but not to heavy either. Enoy it!
DeleteA family friend gave me his HR 214 a couple of years ago. Said it was the first mower he ever bought back in the 80's and he's never had a problem and has never changed the oil or filter! The tread is starting to come off the wheels and the front wheels are bowing out. All the replacement tires I find online are around $20 a piece so when you add in S&H it's $100 for just new tires. I think I might need to replace the whole wheel assembly as well. I'm wondering if it's worth it to put $200 or so into the used mower or just buy a new one.
ReplyDeleteGive that poor machine an oil change first! The front wheels have been bowing out on mine for 10 years now-it's not a big deal. I think to fix it you'd have to put in new bearings. Just order replacement tires for the rear wheels-those are the ones that provide power. The front tires on mine are both split as well, it doesn't harm anything to leave them that way. If you don't want it, put it on craigslist for a hundred bucks and somebody will buy it.
DeleteI would check around with some of your local repair shops. They may have some used wheels sitting around you could buy for a fair price. Ask if you can see their "bone yard".
ReplyDeleteThat's a pretty good idea too! Maybe I'll keep mine the next time I swap 'em out.
DeleteI have a HR214SXA from 1985 or so and it still runs great. I am going to replace the blade and was wondering if anybody has swapped to a newer style of blade (more mulching action, for example) over the traditional 72511-VA2-690.
ReplyDeleteI think there is a kit available, but have never tried it. When I looked a few years ago the blade kit was available, but I think that the plug that fit in the deck was no longer available. Let us know what you find!
DeletePicked up a 214 for 40 bucks. Has bagger and electric start. All good except for smoky startup. Do the valve guides leak too? It stops heavy smoking after awhile, but smells like it is still burning oil. Seems like a nice mower worth fixing and keeping.
ReplyDeleteNo, the valve guides are usually fine. I actually purchased the reamer tool and refurbished a head-there was no difference in smoke. It's almost certainly the rings on the engine.
DeleteRecently got an HR214 in non working condition for $30, after cleaning the carb it still wouldn't start, took of the valve cover and the intake rocker was not making contact with anything, so I adjusted them and it now starts. However I cannot get it to stop surging, I have cleaned the carb probably 7 times at this point with no luck still. Just for giggles I held the governed in place and it runs smooth, so what could be the issue here?
ReplyDeleteI actually figured this one out, the linkage between the governor and the carb was not closing all the way, so I bent the rod a bit and now it is running great once it is warm, it idles correctly and will only surge at full throttle when it is cold. Now I just need a bag for mine or the discharge chute
DeleteMine still has a little surge on startup on full throttle. The surge goes
Deleteaway after a few seconds so I haven't played with it. You can still buy new discharge chutes but the quality isn't as good as the old ones. New Bags I think are same as old, but check the reccomendations for lawn care in your area-it's probably best to let the grass lay!
I have a 1985 HR214, owned since new. I decided to replace the tires, and just received 4 new Honda tires from Zeigler Motorsports. Very nice quality. It is easy to cut off the old tires. Installing the new ones seems almost impossible. I tried: soaking one in hot water; turning the tire inside out; holding the wheel in a vice; and using a C clamp to hold the sidewall down. I do not want to cut part of the sidewall away if I do not have to. Does anyone know the magic moves? Very frustrating.
ReplyDeleteSorry CB (love your username!). I just put two new tires on mine and the solution was simple-use a couple of really long screw drivers and don't be afraid of really putting some stretch into the new tires-don't worry, they won't break. Good luck!
DeleteHi CB. I also replaced the 4 Honda tires not long ago.After 33 years, this is my 3rd set. I put two tires in a ziplock bag then put them in boiling water for 10 minutes to soften them. Remove from the water and wear gloves. Then, I used 2 long screwdrivers to pry them over the rim. This was pretty easy, but work fast while the tires are warm.
DeleteALMOST find it hard to believe people are still getting these mowers and they are working great. I just got an HR214 off of Craig'sList for $60. Brought it home and it works perfect. The only issue and I'm not sure to mess with it, it only runs in 2nd speed even if in the 1st positon. Since 2nd is a comfortable walking speed I may just leave well enough alone. I look forward to many more years of use with this mower. Thanks for all the links to manuals and tips.
ReplyDeleteHey Sam, I would start by checking the linkage to make sure that when you move the lever at the handle it's also moving the lever on the transmission-these bicycle cables stretch over time so you might try tightening it. After that take a look at the transmission rebuild instructions-there is a link at the top of this page. As an FYI, I barely ever use 1st gear.
DeleteI am repairing an HR214sx and I can't seem to get the spring clip to slide onto the cable barrel on the clutch side of the cable and stay. Is there a special tool or trick to getting that attached to the stop bar?
ReplyDeleteNot sure exactly what you're working on, but the only special tools i've used for the cable barrels were needle nosed pliers and a some patience. Hope you got it fixed!
DeleteHi I just discovered this site. Very Cool. I am a proud original owner of a 1987 Honda HR214SX (SN 6216013). This mower has never let me down. Living in SoCal, I am cutting grass with this mower once a week, 12 months of the year, 33 years. My kids grew up using this lawnmower. This lawnmower could outlive me. Here's my problem: After I opened the fuel valve, gas came pouring down onto the deck. After removing the air filter assembly, I noticed that the fuel was flowing out of the throttle body throat and flowing out of a small port to the left of the throat (I assume this must be an overflow port). Closing the fuel valve stopped the leaking fuel. Is this sound like a stuck float? Or something else? Would you recommend I rebuild the carb and focus on the floats or just replace the entire carb assembly. I assume that some of the springs and the gaskets may need replacing. Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like there is an issue with the float on your carb-I'd start there. When I rebuilt my carb the gaskets were still available and all the information to rebuild is in the factory service manual. Good luck!
DeleteI'm installing a new Chinese carb on my HR214SX. Does anyone have any suggestions on tuning it? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteNo clue-the original carbs can be easily cleaned and rebuilt, so why go chinese? See here for all the info you need: https://hondahr214.blogspot.com/p/honda-hr214-resources-repair-manuals.html
Deletejjjohnny - I am looking to replace the carb on my 1988 HR214SX. Very interested in your chinese replacement. Any links??
ReplyDeleteThanks!!!
Greg
Took Cardboard to the local community recycling and large waste disposal site in Nashville. Came back with an abandoned HR 214 Mower to play with in August 2022.
ReplyDeleteVERY RETRO. Still had a service tag on the handle bar.
Drained float bowl (water and ethanol residue) and it started on 2nd pull. Smoked like Mosquito abatement but ran for 15 minutes without problem. I feared RINGS, but compression seemed great.
Diagnosis: Shop had overfilled the crankcase with oil. Drained some oil and not runs clean.
What a classic mower made of real solid metal!
Amazing for a 50 year of mower engine!! Imagine that?
Blade engages fine.
No life out of the transmission. I have read input above and will start with Wheel Rachets and control cable. I am actually curious about opening up the transmission, but will avoid if I can.
NOTE TO BLOG OWNER: I am over 25 and can't figure out how to set up a user name. I am a google user.
They're pretty cool! I suspect that you're rings really are the issue-it will go away as the oil gets low but is still above the fill line. Related-don't screw the cap in to check the oil, just set it on the fill neck like in the picture. You're probably on the right track with the rachets and control cable. If you need to dive into the transmission, look here for a how-to: http://hondahr214.blogspot.com/p/honda-hr214-transmission.html
DeleteHey yall. I have a Honda Hr214 from my grandfather that purchased it in 1986. We have two issues with it. One is white smoke will come out when you first start it up but goes away within a 30 seconds everytime. Oil levels are good though. The rear of the lawn mower squeaks real bad when weight is on the left side or taking left turns. Just some insight with those issues would be great ! Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHELLO, where to start. At the end my problem is my hr214 will start but won't continue. Long story. I bought it a few years ago second hand. IT has worked great. Despite my just neglecting it. SO I ran over a big rock and it stopped, I thought I needed a new blade. SO I bought one, and a vise grip and ratchet set. Turned it on its side and there is a blade. Rather moth eaten but whole. Yes, I foolishly did not turn it on its side before buying the blade. 😵💫 But there you go. I now noticed the speed cable was dangling. I'll preface this to say I've been watching videos and reading the manuals a lot. FIRST about replacing the blade then, now, this problem. SO I thought this dangling cable was why it would not run. I took a sturdy piece of string and pulled it up tight and fastened it. Well, what do you know it started and went! SO I mowed for about ten minutes . I didn't expect for the string solution to be a forever solution but at least I'd know what part to buy right? Anyway, I decided to stop. But when I pulled on the throttle to do so it wouldn't stop. I pulled hard and had it up to the off position but it still went. SO ok. That was fine. Id mow until I ran out of gas or just pull the spark plug wire off. NO problem. But then it stopped on its own soon after. NOW, I see that the throttle cable looks broken. The inside wire has pulled up and there is a loop. THIS is up by the controls. Sigh. I've been trying to diagnose this. IT seems to me I should be able to do a jury rig of the throttle cable to verify this is what is wrong. But the area by the engine is stuck tight. NO movement when I try to pull and push like what the cable would control. The videos on replacing the cable are specific of how to replace it down by the engine but not about the upper part by the controls. It's frustrating. I AM NOT a mechanic at all but as much research as I've done on mowers I think I could start fixing them!! I'm a woman. They didn't have us do a shop class. I think this should be a simple fix. I'm reluctant to take it to a mechanic. FIRST of all the one I checked was swamped. A 25 dollar deposit to start. And maybe in six weeks they'd look at it! Or an additional $100 for a hurry up fee! And then 5 or 6 days. I don't think it's so broken I should abandon and just get a new used one. Thank you for reading my post. When you're done laughing I hope you can help. Counting on you oh obi wan.
ReplyDelete